My First Visit To The North Of Spain, San Sebastian & Bilbao
In 2011 we decided to go to the north of Spain, for five days. We started our trip with three days in San Sebastian and ended in Bilbao.
This time of the year is out-of-season; so the prices of the hotels are less high than the in-seasons of May to September. We left Madrid, by car, on Monday and arrived in San Sebastian around 3:00 pm. The one-way trip is approx. 4 hours.
We checked into a medium size hotel at the far end of La Concha Beach in San Sebastian. The walk to the center of the city along the beautiful beach would only take us 30mins. It is next to the “Cantabrico Sea” which is shared by Spain and France and eventually opens into the Atlantic Ocean.
The weather was a bit cloudy, but the views are still beautiful! The average temperatures were around 52F during the day and 40F at night.
We walked into the city, and our first stop was to take a sweet snack at a Pastry Shop. We had coffee and a lovely layeredcake.
As we get into the center of the city, we come to the main cathedral. It is only 6:30 pm and it is pitch black and an excellent opportunity for a photo. Just stunning!
Next, we go for dinner. The northern cities in the Basque Country of Spain are known for their “Pintxos.” ( Pronounced Pinch-o-s) Selected cheeses, meats, fish and anything else the chef imagines mixed or layered on a slice of french bread. They are served cold or hot and displayed along the bar allowing you to browse for the one that appeals to you. You can take your selection, but I would recommend you have them serve you.
The next day we walked the same walk into the center of the city.
We lucked out with a mixture of clouds and sun.
Next to the sea and in front of the public administration building is a beautiful carousel built in the 18oo’s. The top of the carousel, facing the outside, are lovely murals of the surrounding areas and around Spain.
I particularly love the three dancing blue dolphins on the carousel!
On this day we ventured into the “Old” part of the city. At the end of the street is another wonderfully old cathedral.
Of course, this city’s history and relationship with the sea is very long. The present day city known as San Sebastian was established in 1813.
This photo was taken of the same area in 1949.
After walking around the dock, being blown by strong winds… and at one point, being showered by a large wave hitting the side of the ancient rock retaining wall, we retreated into the center of the city. It was time for more Pintxos.
This restaurant, as well as many others, offer’s a much lighter/gourmet version of the traditional Pintxo. The dish on the right is mushroom risotto, and the one on the left is a salad with grilled veggies, both delicious. (All for about 10- 12 euros)
OH AND THE WINE!
I almost forgot to mention this area is known for its wine. BUT… I am beginning to think all of Spain is know for its WINE!!
Our last day in San Sebastian. One more walk near the shoreline and a stop at the white marble cafe for coffee, fresh orange juice, and a pastry.
The sun is out today.
We say goodbye to this beautiful city in its warmth.
I am already planning to come back!
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After spending three days in San Sebastian, we traveled to Bilbao.
The drive is a pleasant 90 minutes through the mountains. It’s Wednesday evening, and we are looking for our hotel near the Guggenheim Museum. It is in the more modern section of the city center.
(It will take us four hours to return to Madrid from Bilbao.)
While looking for our hotel, I noticed the strong contemporary influence the Guggenheim has on the surrounding stores and architecture.
You can find A LOT of contemporary design, all over Spain, but the concentration and contrast to the other buildings, in this part of the city, reflects the new influence of the Guggenheim and the likes of the people who are drawn to visit it.
I remember in design school the Guggenheim in Bilbao made one of the strongest examples of how design and architecture can have an economic impact on a city and it’s community. Guggenheim Museum has revitalized the tired industrial city of Bilbao.
The River Side View of the Guggenheim Museum in
Bilbao, Spain.
One of the sculptures on the exterior near the river. I don’t think there is a bad view in any direction.
From the Guggenheim, we walked east along the river to Puente del Ayuntamiento. It is the bridge in front of the main government building. Our destination is the “Old” center section of Bilbao. The walk takes us 15-20 minutes.
The river is a very popular area for locals and tourist to spend the day, particularly on holidays. It is Thursday, a public holiday and most of the stores are closed so walking and taking in the views as well as eating some “Pintxos” (Pronounced Pincho-o-s. Small like appetizers served on a piece of french style bread.) are on the schedule.
This city feels like a working, industrial city. It is surrounded by the lush, north mountains of Spain not far from the sea. The Spanish intentionally located their industries of ship steelworks and chemical plants here in the early 19th century. Shipping at one point, to a port in Boston Massichusses.
The rest of the surrounding mountain areas have the look of the North Carolina’s Mountains, near Ashville.
Buildings filled with flats, apartment style homes, line the other side of the river.
One of the main streets leading into the “old section” of Bilbao.
First stop for Pintxos!
The locals in Bilbao are fun loving, earthy people that fanatics over their local soccer team, Atletico Bilbao. They enjoy the casual party lifestyle available in most of the bar filled streets in the center of the city.
This is a family owned and generations operated business… Like many others.
They served “Martini,” the label name not the actual martini as we think of in the States. The drink is served as a martini and has a sweet, cough syrupy aftertaste. With it’s added gin and something else?…it grows on you!
We drank our Martini with Black Snails like the rest of the locals bought from a guy outside the bar in the street. As they say when in Rome…
The snails are cold, a bit salty and served with a straight pin to pull the body from the shell.
These snails along with the olives and the sweet “Martini” are oddly addicting! This experience will definitely be on the list of must-do’s when we return in the future.
WARNING: The snails are not very filling, and after my second “Martini” I was pretty happy :} Consequently…We need to head back to the Hotel.
The next day was overcast in the mid-morning, and we went directly to the “old section” of Bilbao. Today is our last day, and we want to leave early enough for the four (4) hour drive back to Madrid.
Time for a Sweet before we start our drive back to Madrid.
This is my first time having “Turron” the most famous holiday treat of the Christmas Season, in Spain. I had the “Cadiz, ” and my friend had the “Hazelnut.” They were both very creamy and delicious! Clearly, they are best eaten with a warm cappuccino!
Look Closely… I find it interesting the restaurant’s choice of dish wear… Kellogg’s Cereal Promotion Plates. I thought they were cute and colorful my friend just thought they were tacky.
Off to Madrid with my Sweet and Caffeine BUZZ!
XX Kathy