November 2017

As an American living in Spain, I love seeing the contrasts of holidays… Christmas in particular.

Spain is about the size of Texas. Its long history has carved out regional differences in the way the Christmas is celebrated.

Many feel very similar to what we do in America. But here are a few, I have personally discovered that are quite different.

Dates Spain Celebrates Christmas, New Year;
Spain celebrates the Christmas holiday season, December 24th-25, December 31-1 and then again January 6th.

January 6th is the day of Epiphany on the Christian calendar.
& the BIGGEST DAY of celebration and gift giving in Spain, (not as we do on December 25th).

In the South

I lived in a city called Sevilla for two years; it’s in the south of Spain.
A part of Spain you might recognize with Spanish guitars and flamenco dancers. It’s also very Catholic.

There’s a rich history of displaying Belen (Nativities scenes). They start to assemble and present them from the middle of December through the middle of January.

They’re everywhere, in stores, workplaces, and of course in homes. Gorgeous, old, and elaborate; & depending on the location, sometimes enormous. If you look closely, you can see many of the figures are timeworn treasures, handed down from generation to generation… Just lovely!

Each year at the beginning of December, Outside of the Ancient Cathedral in Sevilla’s city’s center, they hold a large Feria ( Fair) with merchants and artists, selling everything you can imagine to build or add to their Belen’s. Some people make them by hand. People spend years collecting and adding to them.

In Triana, a suburb on the other side of the river in Sevilla there is a life- Belen with nighly historically re-enactments… awaiting the arrival of their baby Jesus.  Christmas is a sweet, lovely season to be in Sevilla, Spain.

In the North,
I visited … Several years ago; the Basque Country. You may have heard of Bilbao, because of its world-renown Guggenheim Museum.

I noticed this jolly plump … a cross between an elder elf and Santa Claus figure hanging from a rope outside of the buildings; as if he could climb into your window. His name is “Olentzero.” He looks sweet, European and perfect for the dreams of a Spanish child.

 

“Olentzero” (Pronounced Orange-chair-o)
Through the years he has been known as the Giant living in the woods among other giants. The story that there was some mishap between him and the other giants. Olentzero throws the other giants off the cliff making him the only surviving Giant immediately after he sees a sign in the sky that Jesus Christ was born. He was profoundly moved by the experience and accepts Christianity.  He changes his behavior to only doing good deeds which include giving gifts to people… especially children at this time of the year.

Also in the North
Is another tradition is the “Caga Tio.”

The “Cage Tio” is a painted log displayed in the fireplace of the home. The wood is placed there in the early part of December and is treated like a pet by the children of the house. It’s fed and kept warm with a blanket.

On Christmas, it is beaten with sticks by the children, in hopes that the log will produce gifts.

If the children have been good, the Cage Tio, gives a gift of a toy or, a piece of “Turron” a Spanish Christmas fudge, traditionally made with almonds. If they have been naughty, they could end up with a plate of sardines.

Later the log is placed back in the fireplace and burned. And in this way; as the folklore goes, the log will return to the family the warmth it received during the holiday season.

To the East in
Spain the Catalonia Region, which includes Barcelona there is the defecating ceramic figure called “Caganet.”

From what I understand the Belen/ nativities in Catalonia contain all the traditional characters you would expect BUT with the addition of the Caganet. The sport is to locate the Caganet within the scene. It is the humorous must for any Catalonian’s Belen…

Each year they create a themed Caganet. People collect them. They include many contemporary characters, stars, athlete, and politicians. I am sure this year there will be a Donald Trump Caganet made somewhere in Spain.

 

In the Middle of Spain

In Madrid, the holiday’s look like a mixture of cultures, but I have to say mainly American. Like most European cities Madrid has its Ferias (Fairs) of Navidad, the most traditional located in Plaza Mejor in the city center.

The Christmas kiosks are selling gifts, food, Christmas decor, and food/drinks. A great place to meet and hang out.

A curious thing about the Madrid Feria is the tradition of buying and wearing a SILLY HAT. It is fun to watch the kids and parents walk around entertaining each other wearing these hats. It seems like the more lights the cap has, the better.

One of my favorite things is the POPING-Up kiosks of the Hot Roasted Chesnuts, Sweet Potatoes, and Corn on the cob. They smell and taste delicious!

Traditions have this incredible effect on me, to slowing down, to feel like I am a part of something bigger than the world I grew up and knew. 

What Holidays to you love? It there something about traditions that you like?  I would love to hear from you in the comments

(originally written in 2014)